At a first look at Spring/Summer '12
RTW I can see many reoccurring trends. To list some we have; lace,
sheers, transparent, plastic, macs, biker jackets, blazers more like
tuxedos, shoulder pads, dropped shoulders, block colours, black and
white, graphic prints, digital prints, graphic cut outs, florals....
And I could go on.
One of the most obvious trends for me
was the continued use of the androgynous blazers which for this year
have taken on a more tuxedo look. This was seen a lot in New York
with Derek Lam, Diane Von Furstenburg, Elie Tahari and Helmut Lang,
in which each of these designers kept it to the traditional length.
Also in New York, Calvin Klein could be seen to have the tuxedo look,
this a long version which then became instantly more feminine. Helmut
Lang stayed with last years hit style with the waterfall drapery at
the front.
Trussardi, Milan, and Antonio Berardi,
London, both had very similar looks, white and loose. My overall
favourite look of them all was Givenchy , the use of ice crème pink
is a large contrast to that of the overall androgynous design.
Another who pushed the limits of the
tuxedo was Balenciaga. Taking it from black to grey and using what
looks like jersey and a luxe fabric. The shape is very un structured
and very up and down which really adds to the androgynous look.
Another reoccurring design is the
trusty biker jacket, which I am pleased to say, this year has taken
on many varied new takes on tradition. In London, Todd Lynn, Mulberry
and Felder Felder were amongst those who gave it a new lease of life.
Todd Lynn created a soft beige leather in more of the traditional
style in contrast to that Mulberry which was a bright yellow orange.
Donna Karan, New York really upped the
style of the biker but using the shape and cut of it but using sheer
fabrics to do so. What also makes this so outstanding is the choice
of green, I think this is a really successful design, from a first
glance I thought it was a suede or leather jacket.
There are two that top the scale for
me. Calvin Klein who created a cream, tailored and almost sculptured
design, I think what sells it to me is the way it holds itself at the
waist. And Haider Ackermann, Paris, who created such a innovative
design. A suede wrap around waist, leather traditional collar, and
sheer sleeves, it is such a powerful and evoking design.
Junya Wantabe pushed biker jackets this
year to re-invent them. He cropped their length to under arm length
and added extreme ruffles to the sleeves. He chose to have them in
bright red, blue and
one in black which made it become
clearer to their origin.
London saw many graphic prints, some
being a simple line and others repeat patterns. Felder Felder's
collection brought together both kinds, their most successful being
repeats on silk. Jean-Paul Branganza was another with very successful
prints, they are a complete contrast to the repeats of Felder Felder
with being a simple black bold line on a white garment.
Rebecca Minkoff and Jeremy Laing, both
New York, used graphic prints within their collections too. Both
designers used repeat patterns in monotone which allowed them now to
be too overpowering. Minkoff's collection for me was great, she
teamed the prints with simple tops in the same monotones.
Chanel, Paris, had a change in
direction in this collection with including graphic prints. The
classic cuts of suits and tailored jackets were kept with more modern
twists and then contrasted with graphic prints.
Shape and sculpture is always a big
part of fashion in the form of ruffles, exaggerated shapes, gathers,
and pleating. Mark Fast at London Fashion Week created a open weave
knit, floor length dress that swept the floor with the pinnacle of
all ruffles.
Milan saw Ter Et Bantine create
oversized shapes in their collection, exaggerating the waist and hips
is always flattering. Aquilano.Rimondi created similar designs but
with a large repeat print.
Givenchy used oversized ruffles within
the collection which added a loose lines and a feeling of freedom.
The neutral colours let the garments speak for themselves. Another of
the big trends of translucence was used within this collection as
well.
Translucence has been a massive trend
that can be seen in nearly every collection. It can be seen with the
use of graphic cut outs, chiffons, mesh and use of lace.
Prime examples of graphic cut outs are
Alberta Ferretti, Milan, and David Koma, London, Both designers have
used this trend in very separate ways but both just as successful.
Ferretti used very angled lines and a block pattern to create her cut
outs, in contrast Koma used curved lines and random lines to create a
mix mash of exposed areas. What is interesting about Koma's Designs
is the built up ares that have gone on top of this base design.
Lace can been seen in Valentino's
beautiful collection, however, this is a lace effect that has been
created by graphic cut outs. The designs themselves are simple but
teamed with the pattern they have a romantic and almost child like
feel. McQueen, as always, used lace in a dramatic manner. Layer upon
layer was used to create a ball gown style dress that tailed behind
the model, the gold colour almost made the dress a part of the model.
Mesh and chiffon fabrics could be seen
at Celine, Calvin Klein, Commuun and Graeham Armour. Two of the best
for me were Givenchy and Marc Jacobs who used the mesh in a discreet
manner. Givenchy built up layers of chiffons and a denser fabric to
create layers and different tones in the fabric, in contrast Jacobs
used one overlay of chiffon over a simple dress which added texture
and tone from the creases and fold that it naturally made as the
model walked.
